AN OVERLANDING DREAM TO A JOURNEY: THE ZAMBEZI (CAPRIVI) REGION, NAMIBIA

After a little over a week spent in Etosha National Park, we both knew it was time to head north to unchartered territory for us both and to what can only be described as literal greener pastures. The last time I was this far north in Namibia, the Caprivi Strip, as it was known then, was a no go region due to unrest in the area and fighting over who should own this rather strange tongue of land running east towards the Zambezi River (read a brief history about the Caprive Strip here). If you have never taken notice of this tract of land do yourself a favour and look at a map to see what I mean. It also feels rather ‘un-Namibian’ like – but more on that below!

When documenting our travels, I had always intended to include the Zambezi Region as part of my Northern Namibia blog post. However for many reasons outlined below, I felt compelled to give this area its own moment to shine in a slightly different format to the usual blog posts of our expedition.

A familiar scene all along the Kavango River.

I was not particularly good at poetry, so my long suffering English teachers will probably find it completely bizarre that my recollections of this region made me think of the sonnet by Elizabeth Barrett Browning, ‘How Do I Love Thee?’. With this in mind, I thought I would count six ways, as this sonnet does, of why I love thee, Zambezi region, as such a standout destination. And yes, I truly think the Zambezi region is a destination in itself!

Let me count the ways…

NUMBER 1: THE COLOUR GREEN

For any one who has spent longer than a week or two in a desert, they can attest to the sheer delight and child-like wonderment at seeing a green lawn again for the first time. After 5 weeks of sand, desert and dust, to see the verdant Zambezi / Caprivi region was a sight to behold. I had previously waxed lyrical about the green grass of Alte Brucke in Swakopmund but this was something else. There is green grass, green bushes, green trees, heck, even green birds!

NUMBER 2: THE BRILLIANCE AND IMPORTANCE OF THE WATERWAYS OF AFRICA

After being in the desert and arid areas for a number of weeks, one gets to truly appreciate how the waterways of Africa are its lifeblood. Life revolves around water in Africa and by following these waterways you get to unearth the true secrets of Africa.

Some of the many wonders to explore include: the people with their tribes and cultures; the varied animals and mesmerizing landscapes; the year-round and ever changing photo opportunities as well as diverse range of activities including fishing, water-based and walking safaris; birding; 4×4 safaris and immersive experiences within the communities.

Exploring the different river and water systems of this area including the Kavango, Kwando, Linyati and later the Chobe and Zambezi regions, is a memory I will always cherish and it has left me wanting to come back and explore this area again and again.

How coffee should be enjoyed every morning!

Bee-eaters doing what they are known best to do!

Even the cheeky monkeys seem cuter after the desert!

The area is alive with birdlife.

NUMBER 3: THE CULTURAL SHIFT OF THE REGION

On reaching the western entry point of the Zambezi region or Caprivi Strip in Rundu (and perhaps even from 100km south if this) you feel like you have been transported to another place and time. The area starts to take on a more ‘African’ feel. There is an energy felt through the mingling of the senses when the frenetic chaos of the taxis meets the hustle of the hawker selling their vegetables, as the clanging of the numerous tyre repair shops all vie for your attention. The landscape also speaks of Africa to me: the age-old forests; the cattle and sheep tracks weaving through the over-grazed grasslands hemmed in by pioneer trees such as the sickle bush and gum acacia; the mud houses and barefoot children rolling drums of water down the road, whilst the heady smell of wood-burning fires and heated land complete this sensory journey.

Growing up exploring large parts of South Africa and Zimbabwe, this is the Africa that I know, which keeps drawing me back time and again. One feels a shift away from the indigineous peoples of Namibia including the Ovahimba, San and Nama as well the metropolitan mix found in larger cities such as Windhoek, Swakopmund and Tsumeb towards the cultural influences of the Nguni peoples expansion north from South Africa and Zimbabwe as well as the Lozi and Tonga people.

NUMBER 4: THE FEELING OF BOTSWANA AND ITS LANDSCAPES FOR LESS

Sitting at one of the many fantastic campsites situated in the Zambezi region, I often found myself having this sense of feeling like I had been there before. The fun ‘two spoor’ sandy roads, the stretches of Miombo and Mopane woodlands, the network of river systems and waterways, the feeling of wilderness… I felt like I was in Botswana! A Botswana with less people and cheaper fees. Whilst there may arguably be less big game in this region, for the true wilderness enthusiast it is hard to beat.

While I still dream of going back to Botswana again and again, I would be hard pressed to head up to the Chobe region and not spend a week exploring this stunning section of Namibia. One can pull up your truck on the banks of the Kwando River, make yourself a refreshing sundowner of choice and look over into Botswana watching the guests of the luxury lodges on the other banks enjoying their sundowner!

NUMBER 5: THE JOYS OF WILD CAMPING AND LIVING SIMPLY

Whilst the Zambezi region or Caprivi Strip is a well known overlanding destination, one can’t but help get the feeling that you are in a place far away from anywhere. The area affords one some wonderful wild camping opportunities where cellphone signal is largely nonexistent and you have to be fully self-sufficient. This, for me, is overlanding in its most perfect form. Where the rhythm of the day is set by the arrival of the bee eaters in the morning to get their food and the squabbles of the baboons settling in to their perches for the night. Take me back!

NUMBER 6: AN OVERLANDERS GATEWAY

Due to the unique shape of this tract of land, Namibia shares a border here with Angola, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Within a few hours you can be swimming the rapids of the Sioma Falls, taking in its bigger cousin the mighty Victoria Falls, embarking on a photographic safari of the Chobe, sipping sundowners in Hwange National Park or heading into the lesser explored areas of Angola. If this is not what overlanders dreams are made of then I do not know what are…

Over a week exploring the Zambezi region went by way too fast. It was now time to say our farewells to Namibia and explore the untold beauty of Zambia. Little did we know the delights that would await us in this incredible country. But more on this in the next blog!